8/9/2023 0 Comments Ephemeral rift clemmonsFor the maturing MSGM audience there were oversized suits in jacquard earth tones or celeste blouses with big-pocketed cargo pants. Silhouettes were grown up, with nary a sweatshirt. Giorgetti’s own iPhone vacation images became prints and motifs: a sunrise ombre on T-shirts and knitwear, frayed cotton recalling zebra prints but in monochrome tops or suits, striated eco-leathers imitating the geological formations on overcoats. They were accompanied by rhythmic electronic music. Models - including some older men, in a brand-first - emerged through mist into a striated cavern beneath Milan’s main railroad tracks, as if from a cave into the African dawn. Giorgio Armani took a bow at the end of the show with Italian Olympic athletes, wearing the uniforms they will sport during next year’s Games in Paris.Ĭreative director and fashion house founder Massimo Giorgetti said backstage that the collection was inspired by a recent trip to Tanzania, specifically the hours just before sunrise, which he likened to the moment ‘’when you realize a desire to grow up, but remain youthful in the head.’’ Leafy cutouts created a lace-like effect on coats. The silhouette was loose and elongated, with deep V’s in silken tops or long knitwear jackets. The color palette was of blacks and creams, often with a sheen, so even black stands out against the nighttime background. The loose silhouette had hints of Asia and North Africa, in super wide-leg trousers, sleeveless tunic and robe jackets. The ginkgo, which the designer notes has endured for 250 million years, appears throughout the collection as a motif in jacquards, prints and as elegant golden jewelry. The new Emporio Armani collection was a meditation on timelessness, set against the backdrop of a large ginkgo leaf, itself a symbol of endurance. Wide satiny trousers were paired with a form fitting mock turtleneck, a look that would equally suit women.Ī series of oversized tailored jackets summarized the tailoring, with hour-glass waistlines on long coats, ruched detailing on oversized puffers, deconstructed blazers with sheer panels and pillowy vests.īooties and shoes that zipped up the back gave a futuristic edge to the looks, especially worn with ribbed long johns or briefs.ĭolce & Gabbana filled the front-row with musical talents including Machine Gun Kelly, Italy’s Blanco, South Korea’s Doyoung and Australian Luke Hemmings, each eliciting screams of adoration from fans as they arrived. Sheer panels gave an ephemeral touch over trousers. A sheer organza top and pants were prettily decorated with floral appliques on the cuffs. Tunics featured chest-baring deep-Vs and long, trailing sleeves. Tops were ruched around the waist, creating a cummerbund effect but reminiscent of the duo’s provocative ruched dresses. Instead, the focus was on shape and materials, with a neutral color palette of black, white and camel and ivory. There were no prints, no color and no bling. The wide-ranging collection of nearly 80 looks was a departure for the designing duo in any season, a play on quiet luxury, a reinvention of timelessness, with the designer’s fancy coming through in the silhouettes. Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana feminized the menswear silhouettes this season, with tailoring tricks long deployed in their women’s line.
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